A photo of my 1% keyboard collection
The cherry switch is not connected to anything, so thats not usable for typing. Or, maybe morse... *click* *click* *click*. The flat key is a YubiKey 4 and this is a great little gadget.
I'm using it for 2FA with LastPass. It's normally on my regular keychain, and takes a lot of beating. Very robust hardware.

Bitten by the bug and building stuff is fun.
I will be updating this post while building the keyboard. Building a custom keyboard where you need to get parts from different vendors, group buys, etc. will take a lot of time waiting for stuff to arrive.
Atreus is an open source, ergonomic, 40%, ortho-linear keyboard. It's designed by Phil Hagelberg and he provides the kit with different options.
After some googling I found an Atreus build using an acrylic case by cy384, and I have to say I liked that a lot more than the kit's wooden case.
This is the first time I ever ordered anything printed from CAD drawings, but it looks like the PCB will fit.
I did one mistake. Uploaded two files, one with 1 spacer layer, the other with two. Ordered the first. The PCB with switches requires 5-6mm height, and two layers are required. An acrylic stripe in the middle looks great though.
Then the switch plate. The normal is to use 0.06" so the switches "clips" to it, but 0.125" will work as well with the support of the PCB. Without the PCB you need to hot glue the switches to the plate.
The top layer has no other function than make it look good, maybe for the wooden case to be stronger, but thats no issue with 0.125" aluminium. It will not be an Atreus without.
Here is a test photo with keycaps but without switches. Looks like its stolen from a Star Wars fighter jet.
The aluminium needs a bit of sanding, but I want a bit rough look & feel. The plastic strips will be exchanged with black hex screws.
With many keyboards you need to solder SMD components, but Atreus uses normal diodes. The soldering is very easy, just check the direction of the diodes.
Here is a picture of my PBC and you can see the controller in the middle.
After soldering diodes and controller, it's time to flash the firmware.
There is a step by step instruction on github:
https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus/keyboard/atreus
My homebrew installation was quite old, and I got a problem when installing avr-gcc. Uninstall/reinstall did the trick.
I used this command to flash the firmware. The address, -P, might be something else on your computer.
avrdude -p atmega32u4 -c avr109 -U flash:w:atreus.hex -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1411
Without switches, there is not much more you can test at this point.
Black DSA PBT keyset from Pimp My Keyboard, color NEM. Ergodox Base Set and 4x1.5u single caps.
It's a crowdfunding project and the vendor claims that this is the last usb cable you'll ever need.
Waiting for switches and bolts to arrive.

Work in progress
I will be updating this post while building the keyboard. Building a custom keyboard where you need to get parts from different vendors, group buys, etc. will take a lot of time waiting for stuff to arrive.
Introduction
Atreus is an open source, ergonomic, 40%, ortho-linear keyboard. It's designed by Phil Hagelberg and he provides the kit with different options.
He was kind enough to sell me a slimmed down kit with the PCB, diodes and controller. For this build I wanted MX compatible switches because there are a wider range of keycaps available.
Case
After some googling I found an Atreus build using an acrylic case by cy384, and I have to say I liked that a lot more than the kit's wooden case.
I used cy384's cad file (atreus-3xspacer-openscad-3mm-p2.eps) and sent it to ponoko. Their work is very nice:

So far, so good. Then Big Blue Saw had a sale campaign on 6061 aluminium 0.125" water jet cutting...
... and here is case #2
... and here is case #2

This is the first time I ever ordered anything printed from CAD drawings, but it looks like the PCB will fit.

I did one mistake. Uploaded two files, one with 1 spacer layer, the other with two. Ordered the first. The PCB with switches requires 5-6mm height, and two layers are required. An acrylic stripe in the middle looks great though.

Then the switch plate. The normal is to use 0.06" so the switches "clips" to it, but 0.125" will work as well with the support of the PCB. Without the PCB you need to hot glue the switches to the plate.

The top layer has no other function than make it look good, maybe for the wooden case to be stronger, but thats no issue with 0.125" aluminium. It will not be an Atreus without.

Here is a test photo with keycaps but without switches. Looks like its stolen from a Star Wars fighter jet.

The aluminium needs a bit of sanding, but I want a bit rough look & feel. The plastic strips will be exchanged with black hex screws.
PCB
With many keyboards you need to solder SMD components, but Atreus uses normal diodes. The soldering is very easy, just check the direction of the diodes.
Here is a picture of my PBC and you can see the controller in the middle.

After soldering diodes and controller, it's time to flash the firmware.
There is a step by step instruction on github:
https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus/keyboard/atreus
My homebrew installation was quite old, and I got a problem when installing avr-gcc. Uninstall/reinstall did the trick.
I used this command to flash the firmware. The address, -P, might be something else on your computer.
avrdude -p atmega32u4 -c avr109 -U flash:w:atreus.hex -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1411

Without switches, there is not much more you can test at this point.
Keyset
Black DSA PBT keyset from Pimp My Keyboard, color NEM. Ergodox Base Set and 4x1.5u single caps.

Cable
For this industrial looking keyboard, a matching cable is required. ZUS Kevlar Charging Cable was chosen for this project.It's a crowdfunding project and the vendor claims that this is the last usb cable you'll ever need.
TODO
Waiting for switches and bolts to arrive.
Always great when new books hit the mailbox. Erlang is a fascinating language originated from Joe Armstrong. It's functional and you need to twist your brain if coming from an imperative direction in software development.
Here, fresh from the press, is Designing for Scalability with Erlang/OTP: Implement Robust, Fault-Tolerant Systems by Francesco Cesarini. My reading plan for the summer is set.
It's now available in print from amazon.
Here, fresh from the press, is Designing for Scalability with Erlang/OTP: Implement Robust, Fault-Tolerant Systems by Francesco Cesarini. My reading plan for the summer is set.
It's now available in print from amazon.

Work in progress
Yet Another Open Baffle Speaker, or YAOBS for short.
After some years with Dallas II (D2) it was time to check out new speaker designs. My primary concern with D2 was it's lack of bass below 40-50Hz. I have used a small DIY sub with a Scan Speak 8" woofer, but thats nothing to write home about.
There has been a lot of praise when it comes to open baffle solution in the lower end, and I after listening to Gradient Helsinki 1.5, this was a possible route.
A group by on Acoustic Elegance drivers was arranged on hifisentralen, and I was in for 4 x Dipole15 drivers.
One solution would be add SLOB's for each side, but then the size of the total system would be to big.
I ended up with building new baffles, ripping out the FE203EnS/T500mkII of D2 and create new speakers.
Long story short:
Yet Another Open Baffle Speaker, or YAOBS for short.
After some years with Dallas II (D2) it was time to check out new speaker designs. My primary concern with D2 was it's lack of bass below 40-50Hz. I have used a small DIY sub with a Scan Speak 8" woofer, but thats nothing to write home about.
There has been a lot of praise when it comes to open baffle solution in the lower end, and I after listening to Gradient Helsinki 1.5, this was a possible route.
A group by on Acoustic Elegance drivers was arranged on hifisentralen, and I was in for 4 x Dipole15 drivers.
One solution would be add SLOB's for each side, but then the size of the total system would be to big.
I ended up with building new baffles, ripping out the FE203EnS/T500mkII of D2 and create new speakers.
Long story short:
TODO:
* Crossover
* Build log
For the last 3 months, I have done some changes when it comes to input devices.
I have been using mechanical keyboards way back, but the later years it's mostly been mac keyboard and different laptop keyboards.
Time for a change.
From April I've been using Happy Hacking Keyboard (HHKB) Pro 2. This is a 60% keyboard with Topre switches, often referred to as the king of keyboard.
It's small, portable and a dream to type on. You need some time to get used to the change of Control key and arrow keys on another layer (press fn for second layer).
Today I received a custom set of arrow keys. They freshen up the keyboard and It is a great visual clue where some characters are located. (Yes, blank caps - forces you to study touch typing)
The caps are dyed by compint_tko (ebay) and he offers great service.
Follow me on instagram for more pictures:
https://www.instagram.com/mteinum
I have been using mechanical keyboards way back, but the later years it's mostly been mac keyboard and different laptop keyboards.
Time for a change.
From April I've been using Happy Hacking Keyboard (HHKB) Pro 2. This is a 60% keyboard with Topre switches, often referred to as the king of keyboard.
It's small, portable and a dream to type on. You need some time to get used to the change of Control key and arrow keys on another layer (press fn for second layer).
Today I received a custom set of arrow keys. They freshen up the keyboard and It is a great visual clue where some characters are located. (Yes, blank caps - forces you to study touch typing)
The caps are dyed by compint_tko (ebay) and he offers great service.


Follow me on instagram for more pictures:
https://www.instagram.com/mteinum
Featured Post
Atreus
Bitten by the bug and building stuff is fun. Work in progress I will be updating this post while building the keyboard. Building a cu...


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